Planning a Bathroom? Put the Tiles Down and Check These First

Keeping the toilet where it is usually simplifies the work, because moving the soil stack can involve substantial changes to drainage. Baths and basins can move more easily. Before choosing products, measure the room and mark the soil pipe, window and door — then plan around them.

In 1930s semis the bathroom is often small with the toilet in a separate room next door. Knocking the two together is one of the most popular changes and can turn a cramped space into a usable family bathroom.

If you have a combi boiler or an unvented cylinder, you're on mains pressure and most thermostatic showers will work well. If you still have a cold-water tank in the loft and a vented cylinder, a pump or an electric shower may be needed for a strong flow.

Run the kitchen cold tap into a bucket for 10 seconds — if you get less than about 1.5 litres, mention it at the survey.

Larger Four Oaks and Mere Green homes often have room to take space from a bedroom for an en-suite. The key questions are drainage (can it reach the soil stack by gravity?) and ventilation (an extractor fan ducted outside is required for a room without an opening window).

Every job is different, but a typical sequence looks like this:

• Strip-out and first-fix plumbing and electrics.
• Boarding, waterproofing (tanking) of wet areas and plastering.
• Tiling and grouting — often the longest stage.
• Second fix: sanitaryware, brassware, furniture and sealing.

Waterproofing behind tiles in a shower area is invisible once the job is done, which is exactly why it matters. Ask how wet areas will be tanked and what board is going behind the tiles.